Tuesday, August 30, 2016

Flour Sack Towels

These are great for plopping or drying your hair. They are very large and less bulky than a t-shirt for plopping. They are very absorbent, but thin; so they dry faster than a regular microfiber towel or t-shirt. They're great for travel because they're smaller, lightweight and dry quickly. They also are great because they absorb less product from your hair compared to a t-shirt or microfiber towel. Try them!


You can get them at Walmart or Target by the regular dish towels or on Amazon.






 

Monday, August 29, 2016

Favorite Spray Bottle!!

I am in love with this spray bottle for refreshing. It's a continuous fine mist. Most spray bottles are too rough and frizz my hair. This one is so gentle that I get much less frizz! I added a little YTC with water and spritzed, then smoothed a little YTC condish over my hair. Pineappled damp for bed. Here's my day three results! Pretty good for my looser waves!

:)





Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Tips for Humidity and Frizz

Tips for humidity and frizz

Use hard hold gel, leave in what you think is a TON of conditioner, try a serum like curl keeper or original moxie hold up serum. Try avoiding glycerin and see if helps. Try plant film forming humectants like are in flax seed gel or the original moxie hold up serum. Some people's hair glycerin actually helps in the summer, so play with it and see what's best for you. 

DIY Flax Seed Gel

FLAX SEED GEL

The ultimate curl enhancing gel: flax seed gel. Lightweight not sticky, feels natural, clumps curls, humidity fighting, cheap $.16 for flax seeds only...but you have to make it yourself. 
Here's my basic recipe:
1 1/4 cup water
3 tbls flax seeds
Boil water, add flax seeds, stir constantly with a whisk or fork, turn down to medium at a lower boil, boil until flax seeds float in the water and don't sink 3-5 min. When you lift the whisk you will see thin strings of gel. If you boil too long the strings will be too thick and you will have unstrainable goo. Give a final swirl and pour into a wire mesh strainer.
Add ins to strained gel:
Moisture: dietary aloe vera 1 tbls
More curl: Epsom salt 1/2-1 tbls could dry hair 
Hold: honey or agave 1/4 tsp
Thicken: Reheat strained gel, slowly add 1/4 tsp xanthum gum while whisking, careful it will clump
Scent-2 drops essential oil 
Deep moisture: a couple drops of coconut oil or any other favorite oil, careful can make you oily 
Add more or less as needed
Lasts 2 wks in the refrigerator so batch it and freeze it.

Best with a harder hold gel over it like la looks gel. FSG encourages curls but doesn't hold them very well. It is a very soft hold.

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Curl Enhancing Gels


Here are some curl enhancing gels I reviewed:






Spray Gels

Here are some CG spray gels:

Suave Captivating Curls - Can get sticky, good hold and good for refreshing if you go very light.

DevaCurl Spray Gel - Haven't tried much. Didn't seem sticky. Medium hold, over another Deva gel, it will harden the hold. Haven't refreshed with it yet, but could have potential.

Raw Curls Spray Gel - Nice and light, not sticky, great refresher. Hardens hold of gel.

Ion Curl Solutions Spray Gel (from Sally's) - Light weightless hold, great for refreshing, but go easy or it can get sticky, but not as sticky as the Suave Captivating Curls.

Kinky Curly Spiral Spritz - Not exactly a spray gel, but you spray it in your hands, and it refreshes like a spray gel, but it is not sticky at all and is very light and natural. Not a gel hardener, more of a refresher.



Saturday, May 28, 2016

Why Does Shea Moisture Dry My Hair Out or Make It Look Bad?

Shea Moisture has heavy oils and shea butter very high in the ingredients list. These can have a drying affect on low porosity hair types. The cuticle lies flat, so all the shea butter does is seal the moisture OUT of the hair, not good. Look for humectants that draw moisture inside of the hair. Kinky curly is full of humectants and is a good line to try or gvp cb. Clarify or low poo the shea butter or oils out with Kinky Curly Come Clean or another clarifier.

If you have fine or wavy hair, Shea Moisture might be too heavy for your hair, weighing it down. Hair will look greasy, dull, or weighed-down or will be over-conditioned. Again clarify or low poo to get back on track and start using something lighter and less moisturizing.

Shea Moisture can also cause a waxy-coated feeling or tangles on many hair types. Regardless, depending on your hair type and environment Shea Moisture may still build up on your hair and scalp so just be aware. It is ok to use if it works for you, but just know it could possibly do this. I have had to decrease using their products as often because they are building up on my scalp since I am becoming lower porosity on my healthy unbleached roots. I was getting an itchy scalp and white flakes on my roots. High porosity and curlier types generally fair better with Shea Moisture. It seals the moisture in on porous hair types. The hair is more porous so it doesn't build up as easily.

Helpful CG Blogs/Websites

These are the best CG sites/blogs I have found:
http://pedaheh.blogspot.com/2012/04/
How to get started, wavy hair, techniques, trouble shooting.
http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/
Science on curls. Troubleshooting. DIYs.
http://dormroomcurly.blogspot.com/
How to start.
http://www.naturallycurly.com/
Everything on curls.
http://rockyncurls.blogspot.com/
My blog.
http://curlsandblossoms.blogspot.com/
Popular CG blogger.

Smaster's Technique- Consistently Awesome Hair Technique...

Smaster's type styling is where you add product after diffusing or air drying part of the way. Most people use wet/damp hands before adding more product to prevent frizz. The say do this and the magic happens, spirals appear everywhere! It also breaks up the gel cast without frizzing, allowing the hair to be exposed to air and dry faster.

You put half of your hair product in, dry it halfway, then add the other half. For instance, half of your gel, dry it halfway, then add curl enhancer for the other half. Or you can try using all your product and styling as normal, drying halfway, and then adding a tiny bit of curl enhancer, gel, or kccc. That is what I did here. I styled as normal, then added a little bit of AIA curling jelly with damps hands. Look at these awesome spirals for just sitting in the hooded dryer a few minutes then air drying the rest of the way. I never get this much without diffusing.






Here's my video demo of the method:



These are the threads where I learned about the technique:

http://www.naturallycurly.com/curltalk/general-discussion-about-curly-hair/92240-consistently-awesome-hair-technique.html

http://www.naturallycurly.com/curltalk/general-discussion-about-curly-hair/172454-smasters-technique-question-s.html

This is the blog where I learned about it:
http://pedaheh.blogspot.com/2012/04/before-and-after-curly-girl-method.html?m=1


Build up

Build up can happen from water soluble cones, cyclmethicones, polyquats, shea butter even oil or hard water. Fine, thin, or low porosity hair is more sensitive to this. So I mostly low poo to prevent this. Some people even need to clarify once a month or so with a sulfate or diluted sulfate.

What does product build up look like? Heavy and coated, less curls and volume, dull, some have frizz. Weighed down, greasy, flat curls, no volume at the roots. I get an itchy scalp and white flakes that look like dandruff at my roots along the hair line. I have had to use a clarifying sulfate on occasion to get the build up out. You can prepoo with coconut oil so it shouldn't affect your curls much. I also use a hard water shampoo.


Thursday, May 26, 2016

Hooded Dryer Babyliss

When people tell me curly is harder than straightening, it's because you could be making it easier. I just sit and dry my hair in this hooded dryer. I use this Babyliss Pro Thermal Ionic hard hat dryer. I sit 15-20 minutes then air dry the rest of the way or 30-40 minutes until fully dry. I sit and do my make up or get on the computer, and it's very relaxing. 


Sit down and relax ladies.  :)
   



Raw Curls Wavy Swavy Line

Check out my review of this organic professional line just for wavies. Raw Curls Wavy Swavy line by Raw Hair Organics.




Saturday, April 30, 2016

Hard Water and the Curly Girl Method

When I first started the curly girl method, I had curls that could be cowashed every time and no build or itchy scalp. After I moved to a new area, I had dry curls, build up on my hair and scalp, itchy scalp and frizz. I couldn't cowash very often anymore without limp, greasy curls.

Turns out I had hard water. I had to start using a shampoo for hard water build up and low poo most of the time. I occasionally use the hard water shampoo, once a month or every week if needed. I used Ion Hard Water Shampoo from Sally's with sulfates because I couldn't find the one without sulfates, but I am going to get the ion Hard Water Shampoonext time. Also, there is the MopTop Clarifying Treatment that removes hard water which is sulfate free and the Malibu C Hard Water Wellness Shampoo, volume 9 fl oz. You can also try ACV Rinses. Hope this helps.

This is my hair after the MopTop super shampoo.

Check out these shampoos here:





How to Preserve Your Curls at Night

You can preserve your curls at night with a pineapple, buff, satin cap, or a satin pillowcase. A pineapple slightly indents my curls, but is the easiest to use and most comfortable. The buff is the best at preserving, but sometimes slips off. The satin cap squishes my weaker curls, and the pillowcase causes frizz if I just sleep with my curls not tied back.

When I first started the CG method, my hair was shorter and more porous. I would sleep with a pineapple or these buffs at night:


As my hair got healthier and low porosity, my hair became shiny and slippery, so the buffs would slip off. I tried sewing elastic into the edge or using a headband over the buff which worked ok.

I recently found this buff that has elastic in the end. It doesn't slip off, but can be a little tight, so I push it past my forehead on my hair line or else it is too tight to sleep with. When I use this, I push it up so far I actually get some volume at the roots and looks cute. So far this is my favorite one. I found it at Bed Bath and Beyond, but it is cheaper on Amazon.



I slept with wet hair last night, and the buff didn't fall off. I woke up to this:





See how I use the buffs here:


Raquel's Favorite CG Products

Favorite CG Products (These are how they react to my hair and are suggestions only)


Cowashes
(Massage the scalp only to cleanse, unless you think the rest needs extra cleansing, very dry or tighter curls should only cowash) Cowashing frequently can overcondition less dry hair types. Now that my hair is low porosity they are mostly too heavy, they were perfect when I was high porosity with highlights.


Suave naturals (good scalp cleanse, can massage better)

Vo5 (Lighter, can’t massage as well for me.)

Dilute cowashes if your curls get overconditioned or weighed down, switch to sulfate free shampoo or water massaging of the scalp. If you are oily, try add baking soda (more abrasive or granulated sugar.)

As I Am Coconut Cowash Cleansing Conditioner, 16 Ounce- Favorite cowash of many, was my favorite when I was high porosity. Cleans very well, but it is thick and very moisturizing, castor oil can build up though.

DevaCare No-Poo No-Fade Zero Lather Cleanser 12 oz (Best cowash to prevent build up)
DevaCurl No-Poo Decadence 12oz  (Best moisturizing cowash to prevent build up)
 
Shampoos- I mostly low poo and use clarifying shampoos now. Occasionally use clarifying shampoo on the scalp only if you used silicones or have build up or if you get weighed down easily. I have got an itchy scalp from build up and hard water, so I clarify to get rid of it.


Clarifying/transitioning shampoos: (These will strip they have milder sulfates, only use to transition or clarify something out, or if you get weighed down easily)


Gud shampoo-Has a milder sulfate-moderate cleanse


Kinky Curly Come Clean Natural Moisturizing Shampoo Sulfate Free 8 oz -Has a milder sulfate-moderate cleanse


Eden tea tree shampoo- Has a milder sulfate, deeper cleanse


Trader Joe’s Tea Tree Tingle Has a milder sulfate, deeper cleanse


Ion Hard water shampoo -Clarify the hard water, or to remove build up/itchy scalp feeling. Deepest cleanse.


CG approved gentle cleansers (Low Poo):



Shea Moisture Raw Shea Retention Shampoo-13 oz-More lather a better clean


Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and shine-less lather, ok on me


Raw Curls cleansers- Gentle on me, wavy is more cleansing


Maple Holistics- Very gentle


Rinse out conditioners (Condish):


Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Restorative Conditioner- Most Moisturizing (Shea is heavier don’t use much on finer/low porosities types.) Rinse out completely.


Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and Shine Conditioner- More Moisturizing, rinse out completely.


Deva Curl - Awesome for everyone to try except protein sensitive, can get producty for some.
Deva Devacurl One Condition Conditioner
DevaCurl OneCondition Decadence (12.0) (More Moisture)

Raw Curls Conditioner- Very moisturing, use hardly any a quarter or half dollar or less, makes hair shiny and give volume and no frizz, no producty feeling. Leave it all in on me.


GVP Conditioning balm (Sally’s)- I LOVE THIS. HG. Good for anyone. Good moisture for all hair types except maybe the highest porosites, Deep moisture for low to medium porosity, great slip for detangling. I leave all this conditioner in my hair.


Yes to Carrots- Leave it all in


Tresseme Botanique- Moderate moisture, good on anyone, except protein sensitive, I leave itr all in


Naturelle Biotera Ultra Color Care Conditioner 13.5 oz Silicone & Paraben Free - I leave it all in, medium moisture
Nature's Gate Hair Defense Conditioner - Pomegranate Sunflower - 18 oz - I leave it all in, light but moisturing

Raw Curls Wavy swavy is so light for volume but has moisture, no shea butter, perfect for wavies, but also fine or low porosities to try (leave it all in)


Suave naturals-Not much moisture


Vo5-Least moisturizing


Leave in conditioner:
(Any conditioner can be a leave in, fine wavy types may not need it at all and will be weighed down by it)


FAVORITE LEAVE IN
: Leaving all my rinse out conditioner in, adding more or another leave in on top of that for extra moisture if the hair is frizzing and not clumping wet. You can try rinsing it all out or rinsing and adding more ears down as well.


Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Style Milk- lighter than the smoothie (Heavy on low/med porosity due to the shea). This is my HG leave in. It has emollients like shea butter that smooth and seal the cuticle, but it could be heavy and build up on finer, low porosity, or less dry types.


Shea Moisture Curl enhancing smoothie- more moisture, heavier Leave/Styler/Curl enhancer combo may work if you’re higher porosity or a tighter curl. It is my HG cream in the winter or with fresh highlights. I use the milk under it.


GVP conditioning balm- Medium to heavy but light moisture


Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave In Conditioner/Detangler - 8 oz - I LOVE this now. HG leave in for the curly girl method, medium moisture on me, not heavy, very volumizing, good for anyone to try but not very moisturizing on high porosity hair. Hum,ectants are great on low prosity or fine hair. I think too much humectants made me frizz when I was higher porosity.


As I Am Leave In- Similar to KCKT, cheaper and not a volumizing on me.


DevaCurl B'Leave-In curl Boost and Volumizer 6 oz-Love it!! Gives me giant ringlets and light volumizing moisture with a touch of a gel feeling.


Tresseme Botanique- Medium moisture


Suave naturals- Lighter, low moisture


Vo5-Lightest, least moisture


Sealer: (Oil over leave in to lock in moisture longer to prevent frizz and wash and refresh less, I refresh with this too use in the LOC or LOG method-Leave in, oil gel for weaker or less dry curls and LOC liquid oil cream for tighter dryer curls)


(Now that I am leaving all my conditioner in and have low porosity roots, I don’t need these now and they weigh my hair down.)


Coconut oil- Very moisturizing, Makes me oily if I use too much in the summer, some use it a lot, try the tips first. Loved it last winter to seal and refresh. Too heavy for me now that I am low porosity.


Shea Moisture Raw Shea Elixir- Spray oil, more moisturizing, can use it like a serum or a spray heavier. Too heavy for me now.


Shea moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Moisture Moist- Lighter refreshing spray if you don’t have too fine of hair because of the shea butter. Too heavy for me now.


Shea moisture Tahitian and Noni high shine glosser- Lighter oils and no shea butter but has a lot of coconut oil if that is greasy on you avoid…Medium texture curls could try this. I refresh with this often now. Can be heavy on me now.


Jobaba oil- All hair types-like your own hair oil-moderate level seal (online or at organic stores), Light. Low porosities like it.


Grapeseed oil- Light, heavier than jojoba (Online/organic stores) I used to refresh with this more often now. It made me greasy if I use too much though. Too heavy now. Low porosity, coarse textures love this.


Sunflower oil- the lightest penetrating oil I have tried, awesome refreshing oil, especially in the summer. I use it for or deep conditioning now. Light penetrating oil.


Argan Oil- The only oil I really use now. Very light, nice to refresh if you are frizzing bad.


Raw Curls Oil- Light oil mixture, very nice to SOTC, not too heavy. Has broccoli seed oil for shine.


Curl enhancer: (for curls to clump, use harder gel over it)


Kinky Curly Curl Custard Gel, 8 oz -HG curl enhancing gel. LOVE IT!!


Flax seed gel, the best clumpiest lightweight, antihumectant but good on anyone (Make it, order it on Etsy or get Jessicurl rocking ringlets), wavies love it.


Ecostyler- good if your curls are tighter or healthier, I didn’t make me curl in the beginning when my hair was straighter, mostly a curl clumper. The protein and glycerin causes many to frizz.


Shea moisture Gel Souffle- Heaviest, Vegetable Glycerin, Flax seed oil, Coconut oil, only use over very moisturized hair or you will look greasy. Very potent, use a pea size or less to try. Just seal the tips to try at first I suggest it only for tighter curls than mine unless its just the tips. It acts as a curl enhancer and sealer on me.


Fructis Garnier Pure Clean Gel- Ok for clumping


Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing smoothie-Leave in styler combo, more of a cream than a leave in, heavy, can weigh my curls down. Try if curl pattern is type 3a or above if your hair likes shea. Use sparingly at first.


Uncle Funky’s Daughter Curl Magic Stimulator- Very clumping and makes hair shiny


Curl Junkie Pattern Pusha Hair Styling Gel - 16 oz-Clumping and can use alone


MopTop - Curly Hair Custard Citrus Kumquat - 8 oz. - Cluming with hold, can use alone.


Hard hold gel (HHG):



La looks sports gel (The best, cheapest gel to find)


La Looks Extreme Spikes- My FAVORITE


Biosilk Rock Hard Gelee- Very, very strong use a tiny amount


Beyond the ZONE Bada Bing gel- LOVE it, it feels like a mixture of La Looks and BRHG.


Deva Arc Angel- Nice light hard hold, no frizz without the crunch, air dies well.


Raw Curls Firm Gel- Soft hold for HHG, air dries well and give slight curl enhancement with no crunch, not a ton of hold if you need more, it is enough for me.

Spiralicious- HHG on fine or low porosity

Moderate hold gel:
(I preferred hard hold for good curls, but these are lighter if you need to work up to hard hold gel or hate crunch)


Herbal Essence totally twisted- softer hold


Fructis Style Pure Clean Gel- softer hold, clumps curls too, cleaner feeling, low hold


Uncle Funky’s Daughter Curl Magic Stimulator- Very clumping and makes hair shiny


Curl Junkie Pattern Pusha Hair Styling Gel - 16 oz-Clumping


Mop Top Curling Custard- Clumping decent hold


Ecostyler- Many use this as a HHG. Not hard on me. Hard on some finer types The protein and glycerin causes many to frizz.


Serums:


Curl Keeper- Gets rid of frizz and promotes definition, block frizz in the summer if you’re not glycerin sensitive,


Ky or lube- Curl Keeper dupe, some/many don’t like it as much as curl keeper


Original Moxie Hold Up Serum- Prevents frizz, makes curls shiny.


Curl creams (Heavier, more moisture):



Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing smoothie- Thicker, Shea and coconut oil high porosities


Eden All natural curl defining cream- Moderate- Coconut oil, Vegetable oil, Aloe Vera juice, Cetyl Alcohol, less shea


Cantu Coconut Curling Cream- Lighter, Canola oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, less shea


Camille Rose Aloe Whipped Butter Gel- Light, good for wavy and low porosity


DevaCurl Creams- My HG, I LOVE these! The only creams I use now.


Deep conditioning treatments (DT):


Moderate/high porosities:


Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Hair Masque-deep moisture, argan oil- High porosities (May have to low poo out if you look oily) My HG when I was high porosity.


Shea Moisture Superfruit Complex- Cetyl alcohol, Vegetable Glycerin, Moderate moisture


Shea moisture, Tahitian noni and monio, added proteins for damaged hair


Low/Medium porosities or finer/thinner hair:


SheaMoisture Manuka Intensive Masque-My favorite DT now.
Curl Junkie Rehab- Awesome for LP hair

GVP with honey and coconut oil mixed in (go easy with the honey or it will be stuck in there) add olive oil for more moisture


Anyone's hair:


Easy/cheap DT for anyone coconut oil, condish, honey and add olive oil if you need more moisture and greek yogurt or an egg for protein. Don’t cook the egg...lol Could happen using a shower cap.


Combine DTs above as needed


PT-Protein Treatment: 
(good to repair bleach/straightening/brushing/long hair life damage and some finer types love it to create thicker feeling hair and volume.)

Aphogee Two Step Protein Treatment- Has cones, clarify with a stronger low poo to get them out.

Knox PT treatment from Sciency hair blog-1 pkg. Knox gelatatin mixed into 1/4-1/2 cup water microwaved steaming hot water. Mix in tresseme naturals, coconut oil, agave or honey. Let sit on hair 5 min and up to 1hr for bleach/heat damage, add heat if extremely damaged.


I have added Knox straight into my rinse out masque and did a PT that way. Let it sit 20 min.


Try adding an egg or greek yogurt to DTs for added protein. If it gets hard after, it could be protein overload. If it helps and makes the curls tighter, you retain moisture better, and you are less frizzy your hair likes the extra protein.


http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2014/04/gelatin-protein-treatment-recipe-update.html


Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Squish to Condish Method (STC)

This method promotes curl clumping formation and helps you with dryness and allows for better hydration. It seals the cuticle and allows you to use less leave in product.


Basically cup your hands with water to scrunch out your rinse out and don't rinse out all of your conditioner. Your hair should feel like seaweed. If you feel dry and your curls aren't clumping, add more conditioner and rescrunch as needed. Use a cheaper conditioner like SN to scrunch with if you are using a lot of conditioner. I do this and add more rinse out and I do not hardly ever use a true leave in any more. :)


http://www.thereoncewasacurl.com/blog/squish-to-condish

http://youtu.be/oDi0OvYSgSA

Antihumectants

This is why some low porosities can feel dried out by shea moisture which is full of antihumectants. Antihumectants=moisture blocker. Thus preventing frizz and straightened hair from reverting back to curly by protecting from excess moisture in the air. In high porosity they help seal in moisture or block from excess moisture that causes frizz. Use antihumectants under your humectants to keep your moisture sealed into the hair. Use coconut oil if you're finer.

Plant Triglycerides – are hydrophobic in nature that is to say they repel water. Examples of these are; Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Olive Oil, and Shea Butter.
As you have probably noticed, apart from the plant triglycerides, all the other examples of anti-humectants are hard to wash out of the hair without shampoo. So if you do use any of these often you will have to shampoo more often. With Silicones, you will have to use a harsher shampoo, as these are very difficult to get out of the hair, and will need a clarifying sulphate free shampoo every time you use them to get them out. Overuse of clarifying shampoo can weaken the hair.

Products: Shea Moisture, Natural Oils


Sources:
http://curly2kinky.com/clinic/anti-humectants/




Humectants

Humectants, few examples include:•

Glycerin• Propylene glycol• Honey• Agave nectar• Sorbitol• Sodium PCA• Panthenol• Hydrolyzed silk protein• Fructose

Low porosity likes humectants to draw moisture into the hair. But you have to be careful, In times of low dew points when there is not much water or moisture in the air, humectants can do more damage than good, as they are not particular in where they draw water from, so if there is no water in the air they will leach the water out of the hair strands on which they have bound themselves to.

In more normal weather, low porosity likes humectants to attract water into the hair and high porosity likes more oils to seal in moisture inside the hair. However, the weather can affect things so be aware of these conditions. La looks gel has humectants, but I seal hair with shea moisture or coconut oil underneath and my hair is not sticky like before in my humid climate.

Low humidity conditions are those such as cold, dry winter air. In this case, if you use products that contain a lot of humectants, there is not a lot of water in the air for the humectants to attract to the surface of your hair. What can occur is that the humectants in your products may prevent the evaporation of water from the hair into the air. However don’t look for ultra-moisturized hair from humectant use in this type of climate because it’s just not going to happen. In fact there is a chance that humectants may remove moisture from the cortex of the hair into the air. Remember diffusion? Moisture will move from areas of high concentration (in this case the hair) to areas of lower concentration - the air! This can result in dry, icky feeling hair. Not cool!

With high humidity conditions such as warm or hot summer air, there can often be A LOT of moisture in the air. Some moisture is good; a lot of moisture – not so much. If your textured hair is dry, damaged and overly porous it can absorb a lot of water from the air. This can lead to swelling of the hair shaft, lifting of the cuticle, tangling and frizz. Combine this situation with a product that is high in humectants (especially glycerin) and you have a situation where a lot of water is attracted to the surface of the hair. This can lead to hair that always feels wet, takes forever to dry and is a sticky, tangled mess. In other words, cotton candy hair. Not hot at all!


Products: KCCC, KCKT, As I am leave in, GVP MAtrix Conditioning balm from Sally's


Sources:
http://curly2kinky.com/clinic/humectants/
http://www.curlynikki.com/2012/12/humectants-weather-and-hair-care-part-1.html?m=1

Wavy Suggestions

RO- GVP CB or Tresseme Undone
Cowash- SN or AIA
Low Poo- SM
LI- KCKT
Enhancer- KCCC, Rocking Ringlets, AG Recoil, FSG
HHG- LA Looks Sports gel or BRHG
Tresseme Undone Line

Apply on damp hair, not soaking wet, ears down to get volume.



Diffuse for volume.

DIY Recipes

Dry shampoos~
Corn starch and cocoa powder in an old spice container.

Protein DT~
1 pkg. Knox gelatatin mixed into 1/4-1/2 cup water microwaved steaming hot water. Mix in tresseme naturals, coconut oil, agave or honey. Let sit on hair 5 min and up to 1hr for bleach/heat damage, add heat if extremely damaged.

http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2014/04/gelatin-protein-treatment-recipe-update.html

Moisture DT~
Mix coconut oil, olive oil, silicone free condish, and a little honey or agave. (Heat the coconut oil up in the microwave then mix or just stick it into your hair and mix everything else together.

Oily scalp~
Cowash with a thinner silicone free condish with a tiny bit of baking soda added, massage well. Use dry shampoo as needed. Baking soda is abrasive, so only use it sparingly to clarify, if very oily, or to help transition. If you are using baking soda a lot, try instead sulfate free shampoo. If using a lot of baking soda to clarify, use ACV to help seal restore shine and ph after using baking soda. If you're just cowashing the scalp with a little baking soda added while transitioning or occasionally when oily, I don't think you need ACV, but you can if you want.

Also, try granulated sugar instead of baking soda.

Itchy dry scalp~
Coconut oil scalp massage, rinse well. Then mix brown sugar and silicone free condish and cowash by massaging very well and longer.

ACV Rinse- For Hard water, dandruff, or build up. 1 TBS ACV in one cup of water. After low poo or before cowash, rinse the hair with it, let sit a of couple minutes, rinse and then (cowash if you didn't low poo before) and condition as usual.

Sources:
http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2014/04/gelatin-protein-treatment-recipe-update.html

The LOCG, LOC, LOG, and LCO Methods to Lock in Moisture

LOC Method~ Locks in Moisture on dry types. L (Liquid or water/Leave in), O-Oil, C- Cream. The oil seals in the leave in. The cream seals in the oil and smooths out the cuticle. The leave in is usually water based. The oil can be an oil or solid form oil-a butter. The cream can be a anything creamy. Some use conditioner that is creamy. I use creams with emollients like shea butter because they make a film, soften the cuticle, and lock in my moisture. Curls are nothing but water and protein. Just like your body need water, your hair does too. Not too much and not too little. Dry curls need moisture or they will be limp.

Styling:

LOCG- I do this in the winter to lock in moisture on my weaker waves. L-Leave in/Liquid, O-Oil, C-cream, G-Gel. I use SM milk, Coconut oil, SM Smoothie, LALSG. I need the gel to define my weaker waves but many tighter curlies don't need the extra step.

LOG- I do this in the summer to seal in my moisture. I don't need the cream in the summer because there's more moisture in the air. SM milk, Sunflower oil or grapeseed (lighter oils because I am less dry and coconut is too oily in the summer), KCCC, and LALSG. The smoothie made me oily in the summer and was too much moisture.

LCO- Some low porosities do Liquid/leave in, Cream, to pack the moisture into the hair, then seal with oil because it forms a hydrophobic barrier to lock in the moisture. You have to play with both methods to see which works best for you.

Refreshing:

I use LOG to refresh using what I need: using water, leave in, oil, and gel as needed. I wet and smooth the cuticle down and don't spray it because my hair type gets frizzy because it agitates my hair and cause friction and fractionates my curls and causes frizz. The cream makes me weighed down and sticky, so I get less days and I only use it as needed in extreme frizz situations. I can refresh 3-4 days if I am fortunate now.

If you need extra moisture you can refresh with LOCG if you need though. You could play with LCO too.

If you are low porosity or finer, you might not need the extra oil sealing steps. Or you can try just a couple drops of jojoba, sunflower, or grapeseed oil or you might not need any at all.

LOCG Demo:

Curly Girl Method Steps

Curly Girl Steps


All products must be sulfate or silicone free. Silicones end in xane, conol, and cone.

This is a link to the method with pictures:
http://www.wikihow.com/Follow-the-Curly-Girl-Method-for-Curly-Hair

Step 1: CLARIFY: Clarify twice with sulfate shampoo for the last time, make sure it is silicone free...save it just in case you accidently use cones.

Step 2: CLEANSE: Do NOT use regular shampoo. Use a CG approved cleanser only: Use a sulfate free shampoo (low poo) if you are extremely oily or a silicone free conditioner to cowash (conditioner washing the scalp, instead of using shampoo.) Cowash with a light conditioner if you are more oily or a thicker more moisturizing one if you are dry, put it on your finger tips, massage the scalp well, then rinse. Just do the scalp, the cleanser will rinse the tips and pull the impurities off of the hair.

Step 3: CONDITION: Use a thicker more moisturizing conditioner (called a rinse out conditioner), let sit while washing the rest of your body, detangle with your fingers or a wide toothed comb only, then rinse out completely or not if hair is drier and curl type is stronger. If you cannot detangle, add more conditioner. You should have slip when you are detangling. I rinse mine out halfway until the point that my hair feels like seaweed still.

Step 4: LEAVE IN: Use leave in conditioner. It can be any conditioner. If you're dry use the moisturizing one, if it's too heavy use the lighter one. Skip this step if you are fine, get weighed down easily or don’t have dry hair. You should have enough leave in to have slip and should be able to rake your ringers through with slip and no resistance. Smooth it on or rake it in.

Step 5: Smooth or rake, and then scrunch stylers into hair: Gel, mousse (I do not like it at all), curl enhancing gel, cream gel, cream or butter. Smooth the products in for a more curly look and rake them in for a more elongated or wavy look.

Step 6: Air dry, plop, or diffuse. Diffusing may give more volume, less frizz, and tighter curls. Plopping may not work on shorter hair types or tighter curl patterns.


Keep it simple in the beginning.

Four steps: cleanse (cowash or low poo), rinse out, leave in, styler (gel or cream or butter.)

Use only one cleanser. Use only one conditioner as a rinse out and the same one as a leave in. Use only on gel/cream.

Example: Suave naturals cowash, thicker rinse out like Tresseme naturals, leave in Tresseme Naturals, and La looks sports gel (or herbal essence totally twisted if you're nervous of hard gel) or Shea Moisture Smoothie if you need a cream if you are a tighter curl pattern.

POROSITY HELPS YOU PICK PRODUCTS:

Use Shea Moisture if you are higher porosity from heat, dye, or bleach damage. Your hair may not look dull and feel rough and dry. You may also just have naturally higher porosity hair.

If you are low porosity you GVP Matrix conditioning balm from Sally’s, As I am, or Kinky Curly. Your hair may look shiny and feel smoother than higher porosity.

Only change on thing at a time, including technique, so you know what's working.

Products
Most sulfate and silicone products are in the natural hair or natural cosmetic/body area of Wa-lmart, Sally's, Target, TJMax, Whole Foods and Marshall’s. You can find them on amazon and Curlmart.com.

Sulfate shampoo to clarify, use twice, then never again, unless you accidently use silicones: Suave naturals is good.

Cowashes: Suave naturals (the cheap one for a dollar, not suave prefessionals), Tresseme naturals (heavier), vo5 (lighter), As I Am cowash

Sulfate free shampoo: Shea moisture retention (moisturizing doesn't strip, lathers but can build up on low porosity hair), eden tea tree or gud to help oily hair transition it’s not CG approved but has a milder sulfate (from Sally's, deeper cleanse, may strip if not careful, only use on roots if used daily)

Rinse out: The thicker, the more moisturizing: Tresseme naturals (light), GVP Matrix biolage conditioning balm (from Sally's, thicker), Shea moisture conditioner (most moisturizing, pick the gold or pink one to start. May build up on low porosity.)

Leave in: High porosity: Shea moisture milk. Low porosity: Kinky Curky Knot Today or As I Am leave in.

Curl enhancing gels/creams: Ecostyler, Flax Seed Gel (home made), Kinky curly Knot Custard (Target), Camille Rose Curl Maker, Shea Moisture Smoothie (better for second day hair, porous hair or curlier hair types), eden curl cream, cantu curl cream.

Gels: La Looks Sports gel (best affordable strong hold), Aussie insta freeze (moderately strong hold), Biosilk rock hard gel (extreme hold), Herbal essence totally twisted (medium hold)

Best all purpose conditioners: Tesseme naturals (cowash, rinse out, leave in), Sauve Naturals Cowash and refresher.

I'm not a fan of mousse anymore like I was, so I don't have a lot to say other than if you want to use it try herbal essence totally twisted. It doesn't give me the hold and curl definition I am looking for. It feels heavier with more product residue.

The more you move up in curl type the dryer the hair, usually, so you need more moisture. Add oils.


Styling:

The basics: Leave in and gel or just leave in if you are curlier

Type 2 Waives
Fine wavies:
LEG- L-liquid (water), E-Curl enhancer, and harder gel
LOG- L-Leave in/liquid, O-Oil, G-Gel (add just a couple drops of a light oil like joboba or sunflower if you are very dry)

Porous or curly wavies:
LEG- L-liquid (water), E-Curl enhancer, and harder gel
LOG- L-Leave in/liquid, O-Oil, G-Gel
LOEG- L-leave in/liquid (water), O-oil, E-Curl enhancer, G-hard gel (summer)
LOCG- L-leave in/liquid (water), O-oil, C-Cream, G-hard gel (winter)


Type 3/4 Curlies
Condidtioner only
Leave in and gel
Leave in and oil
LOG- L-Leave in/liquid, O-Oil, G-Gel
LOC-L-leave in/liquid, O-oil, C-cream
LCO- L-Leave in/liquid, C-cream, O-oil (packs in moisture for lower porosity under the oil)
LOCG-L-leave in/liquid, O-oil, C-cream, G-gel (G gives definition) LOC- L-Leave in/liquid, O-oil, C-cream (Lock method to Lock in moisture) LCO- L-Leave in/liquid, C-cream, O-oil (packs in moisture for lower porosity under the oil)
LCOG- L-leave in/liquid, C-cream, O-oil, G-gel (G for definition)

Lock in your moisture with oils over your leave in: joboba, sunflower and grapeseed are lighter options. Coconut is heavier.


Deep conditioning
Use to jump start your transition to silicone and sulfate free. The sulfates dry and strip your hair of all moisture and without the silicone blocking the hair from the moisture in the air, your hair will frizz up to the moisture in the air. When your hair is moisturized it will stay down and not frizz. Lock in your moisture using penetrating oils in you deep conditioner.

Low porosity: Mix GVP conditioning balm, coconut, olive oil and/or sunflower oil and honey (moisture and shine)
High porosity: Mix coconut oil, olive oil, shea moisture retention masque, honey

More add ins: aloe vera juice (moisture), agave (moisture), yogurt (protein)

Add a shower cap or walmart bag, add heat if you want (good for low porosity), leave in at least 20 min. but best at least an hour or longer if you can avoid hydral fatigue.

You may have to low poo the oils out of your hair after deep conditioning.


Technique:

No towel drying, use t-shirts or a micro fiber towel. Towels suck the moisture out of your curls and create frizz. Curls need moisture. The towel creates friction and frizz. No brushes.

Apply products when hair is soaking wet, unless you are a finer type. If so, dry the hair first, then add stylers so you don’t get weighed down. Tilt head over for more body on top. Rake product with fingers for more of a wavy look, smooth products over hair with your hands like you are praying for a more curly look. Then scrunch all stylers into hair. After stylers are in scrunch water out of hair gently with a t-shirt or microfiber towel. Stop if it begins to frizz. If your hair has no slip and snags when raking and feels dry, add more leave in. If it’s frizzing, wet add more leave in, water, or gel. Frizzing wet hair could also be build up. If the hair isn’t clumping, add more leave in, gel or curl enhancer. If the hair is weighed down and not curling up when wet, it’s weighed down and something is too heavy in the technique. If it doesn’t set, right it, it won’t look right.

Plop to soak water out of hair and decrease dry time and create volume on top, plop for just 5-15 minutes if you get weird curls. Put a microfiber towel inside the t-shirt to absorb more water faster. Change t-shirts after the first one is damp to absorb even more water out. Can sleep in a plop if you don't get wonky curls when you plop. It may not work on very tight curls or short hairstyles.

Don't touch hair while it's drying!!! Use a diffuser and pixie diffuse just air dry. Once gel cast starts to form, push diffuser into hair for more body flip head over for more volume on top.

No brushing hair! Comb only with a very wide toothed comb or finger comb when conditioner is in wet hair. Finger combing allows best curl formation and is best for preventing breakage.

Pineapple: Go to bed with a loose scrunchy holding your hair on the top front part of your head to wake up to volume on top and intact curls just wet hair with water in a spray bottle and scrunch. Satin pillowcases reduce frizz also. I sleep on it without pineappling sometimes and my hair looks fine. You may have to refresh a little more for second day hair.

Refresh your curls with water, spray gel (mix gel and water in water bottle), conditioner, curl cream or a combo depending on your hair. A great spray combo is equal parts conditioner, water, and gel. I get frizzy from spraying the hair, so I just wet my hands, then add leave in, oil, and gel as needed. Refresh them in them in the morning, evening or if you style you hair and it didn't work out the way you wanted and it isn't curly and is frizzy.

Trouble shooting
If your curls aren't looking right, you may have not got all the silicone out of your hair. Try another sulfate shampoo and start from step one.

You will be very dry in the beginning from stripping sulfate shampoo and silicone blocking your moisture and may look worse before you look better because CG leaves the hair naked and it is no longer covered up by silicone (it’s synthetic oil and acts like rubber caulking) so you see the hair in its true state. Deep condition a lot. If you have damage, after deep conditioning a lot to restore moisture into your parched stripped hair, you can add protein and do a protein treatment if needed if you have heat, bleaching, or dye damage. Some people are protein sensitive, so be careful and experiment with protein before doing one because too much protein can cause brittle dry hair and breakage.

Also, clarify with sulfate free shampoo once a week or month as needed to remove build up from heavier products. If your hair is frizzing wet, it may be build up.


Have fun and play with it!!!

 Raquel

Sources:
http://www.wikihow.com/Follow-the-Curly-Girl-Method-for-Curly-Hair

Places to Find CG products

Sallys~SM,Eco,GVP CB,AIA
Walmart~SM,AIA,LAL,
Target~SM,AIA,LAL
Whole Foods~KC, oils
Trader Joe's~Condish and oils
Amazon~Anything and oils
Ulta~Lot's of goodies. I will explore more of it soon.
HEB- Mop Top

http://m.iherb.com/Bath-Beauty Nature's Gate, Andalou Naturals

http://m.vitacost.com/categories/body-and-shower-products

http://www.curlmart.com/

http://www.soap.com/

https://www.etsy.com/shop/SweetCurlsElixirs (FSG)

Ulta -- Deva Curl
Amazon, Target online -- DevaCurl for much cheaper
Whole Foods -- Kinky Curly, Nature's Gate, and tons of other CG lines
Trader Joe's
TJMAX -- Nature's Gate, Andalou Naturals, Shea Moisture
Marshall's -- Nature's Gate, Andalou Naturals

Google search the curlmart coupon.
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/curlmart.com?c=5747515

Sign up for the Sally's beauty card and email. It's free if you're military I believe. Get rewards and coupon sent to your e-mail. Google the monthly coupons.

Google the Ulta coupons or sign up for rewards for coupons. I love the $3.5 off a $10 purchase coupon.

Curl Enhancers and Curl Definers

Enhancers- Enhance or create curls

Rocking Ringlets- Use generously (good for protein sensitive)
KCCC- Use sparingly (glycerin free)
FSG- Use generously  (glycerin free)
SM Curling Souffle- Use sparingly, heavy with oil
Ecostyler- Use generously, curl clumper (protein and glycerin heavy)
Mop Top Custard- Use Sparingly
AG Recoil- A wavy Favorite

Definers- Defines ones already there making them clump and be less frizzy

SM Smoothie- Very heavy, frizz fighting, can build up
DevaCurl Super Cream- Use sparingly, only a few pumps or less, unless very thick, coarse or curly, very volumizing and curl enhancing
DevaCurl Styling Cream- Lighter cream
Camille Rose Aloe Whipped Butter Gel- Medium cream, has castor oil
Eden Curl Creme- SM Smoothie almost dupe, has more coconut oil

How to Use Apple Cider Vinegar with the Curly Girl Method

Apple cider vinegar (ACV) has excellent benefits for the hair:

ACV-
Helps remove build up or hard water
Balances the pH of the hair
Balances the scalp and helps with dandruff and itching
Smooths and closes cuticle
Conditions the hair

Dilute it 1-2 TBS per 1 cup of water.

Try it before cowashing or after low poo, let soak a couple minutes, rinse, then condition and style as usual. Do NOT use baking soda with curly hair, except diluted with a tiny amount if you have severe build up once in a while to clarify because it is too abrasiveness on curly hair and dry it out. The pH is also too high and can damage the hair over time.


Used on the hair, apple cider vinegar can smooth the cuticle, making your hair appear smoother and shinier. It does this by balancing pH levels unlike commercial shampoos that strip the hair and leave it looking rough, dry or dull. It also removes buildup and can help with dandruff and an itchy scalp.
Simply use ACV as a rinse. Dilute it and dump over your head while in the shower. Give it a moment to sink in before rinsing.

One of the biggest hang-ups people have about using ACV is the smell. Yes, this is a vinegar so it does smell a little like a salad or pickles. But that smell quickly dissipates.

Sources:
http://coconutsandkettlebells.com/apple-cider-vinegar-hair-rinse/
Read more: <a>http://naturalsociety.com/how-to-use-apple-cider-vinegar-healthier-skin-hair/#ixzz3z2O26ZhQ</a>

How to Deep Condition: Jump Start the Curly Girl Method





Deep conditioning will jump start the curly girl method and get your curls back fast!!

Wash or clarify with low poo or sulfates if first going CG (curly girl method), if needed, if you have build up or silicones in your hair. Just wet your head in the sink if you don't and go straight to deep conditioning.  Wet it add heat with a hooded dryer, blow dry, warm towel, or body heat with a beanie and shower cap etc. It's usually better if you wash before and add heat to let the ingredients penetrate. Do a minimum DT (Deep conditioning treatment) in the shower 5 minutes, but it's best if you can do the treatment 30 min to one hr. You can go longer than an hr, but beware of over-conditioning and hydral fatigue when DT too long or overnight. That is not necessary.


Many DT while working out or before the shower and then wash and style as usual. Or if you already washed before DT, then just rinse out and condition (if you need more conditioner) and style as usual.



Best cheap DT:
Rinse out conditioner, honey and oil (olive oil is easy access). You can refer to my oil blog post for more info on other penetrating oils to add. Low porosities and anyone else may benefit from humectants such as adding AVJ (aloe vera juice), honey or agave.

Best store bought DT-
Shea Moisture- Raw Shea Butter Masque (high porosity), Manuka Honey Masque (low porosity or wavy, unless fine)

Curl Junkie Rehab- (anyone but especially fine or low porosity hair)



Best Cheap Low Porosity or wavy DT - GVP (generic value conditioning balm from Sally's), honey and olive, coconut or sunflower oil, depending on what your hair likes. Sunflower is a good option for a cheap penetrating oil that is light and protein free.


Info on oils:
http://rockyncurls.blogspot.com/search/label/How%20to%20Oil%20Curly%20or%20Wavy%20Hair

Check out how to deep condition!

Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Lilla Rose Clips


I love these new Lilla Rose flexi clips so much that I decided to become a consultant. They are great for curly hair, lazy hair days and day 3-4 hair. Check them out on my website www.lillarose.biz/RockynCurls and check out my video demo. I post the specials and sales at https://www.facebook.com/Rockyncurls. Hope you can try them too. :)