Saturday, April 30, 2016

Hard Water and the Curly Girl Method

When I first started the curly girl method, I had curls that could be cowashed every time and no build or itchy scalp. After I moved to a new area, I had dry curls, build up on my hair and scalp, itchy scalp and frizz. I couldn't cowash very often anymore without limp, greasy curls.

Turns out I had hard water. I had to start using a shampoo for hard water build up and low poo most of the time. I occasionally use the hard water shampoo, once a month or every week if needed. I used Ion Hard Water Shampoo from Sally's with sulfates because I couldn't find the one without sulfates, but I am going to get the ion Hard Water Shampoonext time. Also, there is the MopTop Clarifying Treatment that removes hard water which is sulfate free and the Malibu C Hard Water Wellness Shampoo, volume 9 fl oz. You can also try ACV Rinses. Hope this helps.

This is my hair after the MopTop super shampoo.

Check out these shampoos here:





How to Preserve Your Curls at Night

You can preserve your curls at night with a pineapple, buff, satin cap, or a satin pillowcase. A pineapple slightly indents my curls, but is the easiest to use and most comfortable. The buff is the best at preserving, but sometimes slips off. The satin cap squishes my weaker curls, and the pillowcase causes frizz if I just sleep with my curls not tied back.

When I first started the CG method, my hair was shorter and more porous. I would sleep with a pineapple or these buffs at night:


As my hair got healthier and low porosity, my hair became shiny and slippery, so the buffs would slip off. I tried sewing elastic into the edge or using a headband over the buff which worked ok.

I recently found this buff that has elastic in the end. It doesn't slip off, but can be a little tight, so I push it past my forehead on my hair line or else it is too tight to sleep with. When I use this, I push it up so far I actually get some volume at the roots and looks cute. So far this is my favorite one. I found it at Bed Bath and Beyond, but it is cheaper on Amazon.



I slept with wet hair last night, and the buff didn't fall off. I woke up to this:





See how I use the buffs here:


Raquel's Favorite CG Products

Favorite CG Products (These are how they react to my hair and are suggestions only)


Cowashes
(Massage the scalp only to cleanse, unless you think the rest needs extra cleansing, very dry or tighter curls should only cowash) Cowashing frequently can overcondition less dry hair types. Now that my hair is low porosity they are mostly too heavy, they were perfect when I was high porosity with highlights.


Suave naturals (good scalp cleanse, can massage better)

Vo5 (Lighter, can’t massage as well for me.)

Dilute cowashes if your curls get overconditioned or weighed down, switch to sulfate free shampoo or water massaging of the scalp. If you are oily, try add baking soda (more abrasive or granulated sugar.)

As I Am Coconut Cowash Cleansing Conditioner, 16 Ounce- Favorite cowash of many, was my favorite when I was high porosity. Cleans very well, but it is thick and very moisturizing, castor oil can build up though.

DevaCare No-Poo No-Fade Zero Lather Cleanser 12 oz (Best cowash to prevent build up)
DevaCurl No-Poo Decadence 12oz  (Best moisturizing cowash to prevent build up)
 
Shampoos- I mostly low poo and use clarifying shampoos now. Occasionally use clarifying shampoo on the scalp only if you used silicones or have build up or if you get weighed down easily. I have got an itchy scalp from build up and hard water, so I clarify to get rid of it.


Clarifying/transitioning shampoos: (These will strip they have milder sulfates, only use to transition or clarify something out, or if you get weighed down easily)


Gud shampoo-Has a milder sulfate-moderate cleanse


Kinky Curly Come Clean Natural Moisturizing Shampoo Sulfate Free 8 oz -Has a milder sulfate-moderate cleanse


Eden tea tree shampoo- Has a milder sulfate, deeper cleanse


Trader Joe’s Tea Tree Tingle Has a milder sulfate, deeper cleanse


Ion Hard water shampoo -Clarify the hard water, or to remove build up/itchy scalp feeling. Deepest cleanse.


CG approved gentle cleansers (Low Poo):



Shea Moisture Raw Shea Retention Shampoo-13 oz-More lather a better clean


Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and shine-less lather, ok on me


Raw Curls cleansers- Gentle on me, wavy is more cleansing


Maple Holistics- Very gentle


Rinse out conditioners (Condish):


Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Restorative Conditioner- Most Moisturizing (Shea is heavier don’t use much on finer/low porosities types.) Rinse out completely.


Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and Shine Conditioner- More Moisturizing, rinse out completely.


Deva Curl - Awesome for everyone to try except protein sensitive, can get producty for some.
Deva Devacurl One Condition Conditioner
DevaCurl OneCondition Decadence (12.0) (More Moisture)

Raw Curls Conditioner- Very moisturing, use hardly any a quarter or half dollar or less, makes hair shiny and give volume and no frizz, no producty feeling. Leave it all in on me.


GVP Conditioning balm (Sally’s)- I LOVE THIS. HG. Good for anyone. Good moisture for all hair types except maybe the highest porosites, Deep moisture for low to medium porosity, great slip for detangling. I leave all this conditioner in my hair.


Yes to Carrots- Leave it all in


Tresseme Botanique- Moderate moisture, good on anyone, except protein sensitive, I leave itr all in


Naturelle Biotera Ultra Color Care Conditioner 13.5 oz Silicone & Paraben Free - I leave it all in, medium moisture
Nature's Gate Hair Defense Conditioner - Pomegranate Sunflower - 18 oz - I leave it all in, light but moisturing

Raw Curls Wavy swavy is so light for volume but has moisture, no shea butter, perfect for wavies, but also fine or low porosities to try (leave it all in)


Suave naturals-Not much moisture


Vo5-Least moisturizing


Leave in conditioner:
(Any conditioner can be a leave in, fine wavy types may not need it at all and will be weighed down by it)


FAVORITE LEAVE IN
: Leaving all my rinse out conditioner in, adding more or another leave in on top of that for extra moisture if the hair is frizzing and not clumping wet. You can try rinsing it all out or rinsing and adding more ears down as well.


Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Style Milk- lighter than the smoothie (Heavy on low/med porosity due to the shea). This is my HG leave in. It has emollients like shea butter that smooth and seal the cuticle, but it could be heavy and build up on finer, low porosity, or less dry types.


Shea Moisture Curl enhancing smoothie- more moisture, heavier Leave/Styler/Curl enhancer combo may work if you’re higher porosity or a tighter curl. It is my HG cream in the winter or with fresh highlights. I use the milk under it.


GVP conditioning balm- Medium to heavy but light moisture


Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave In Conditioner/Detangler - 8 oz - I LOVE this now. HG leave in for the curly girl method, medium moisture on me, not heavy, very volumizing, good for anyone to try but not very moisturizing on high porosity hair. Hum,ectants are great on low prosity or fine hair. I think too much humectants made me frizz when I was higher porosity.


As I Am Leave In- Similar to KCKT, cheaper and not a volumizing on me.


DevaCurl B'Leave-In curl Boost and Volumizer 6 oz-Love it!! Gives me giant ringlets and light volumizing moisture with a touch of a gel feeling.


Tresseme Botanique- Medium moisture


Suave naturals- Lighter, low moisture


Vo5-Lightest, least moisture


Sealer: (Oil over leave in to lock in moisture longer to prevent frizz and wash and refresh less, I refresh with this too use in the LOC or LOG method-Leave in, oil gel for weaker or less dry curls and LOC liquid oil cream for tighter dryer curls)


(Now that I am leaving all my conditioner in and have low porosity roots, I don’t need these now and they weigh my hair down.)


Coconut oil- Very moisturizing, Makes me oily if I use too much in the summer, some use it a lot, try the tips first. Loved it last winter to seal and refresh. Too heavy for me now that I am low porosity.


Shea Moisture Raw Shea Elixir- Spray oil, more moisturizing, can use it like a serum or a spray heavier. Too heavy for me now.


Shea moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Moisture Moist- Lighter refreshing spray if you don’t have too fine of hair because of the shea butter. Too heavy for me now.


Shea moisture Tahitian and Noni high shine glosser- Lighter oils and no shea butter but has a lot of coconut oil if that is greasy on you avoid…Medium texture curls could try this. I refresh with this often now. Can be heavy on me now.


Jobaba oil- All hair types-like your own hair oil-moderate level seal (online or at organic stores), Light. Low porosities like it.


Grapeseed oil- Light, heavier than jojoba (Online/organic stores) I used to refresh with this more often now. It made me greasy if I use too much though. Too heavy now. Low porosity, coarse textures love this.


Sunflower oil- the lightest penetrating oil I have tried, awesome refreshing oil, especially in the summer. I use it for or deep conditioning now. Light penetrating oil.


Argan Oil- The only oil I really use now. Very light, nice to refresh if you are frizzing bad.


Raw Curls Oil- Light oil mixture, very nice to SOTC, not too heavy. Has broccoli seed oil for shine.


Curl enhancer: (for curls to clump, use harder gel over it)


Kinky Curly Curl Custard Gel, 8 oz -HG curl enhancing gel. LOVE IT!!


Flax seed gel, the best clumpiest lightweight, antihumectant but good on anyone (Make it, order it on Etsy or get Jessicurl rocking ringlets), wavies love it.


Ecostyler- good if your curls are tighter or healthier, I didn’t make me curl in the beginning when my hair was straighter, mostly a curl clumper. The protein and glycerin causes many to frizz.


Shea moisture Gel Souffle- Heaviest, Vegetable Glycerin, Flax seed oil, Coconut oil, only use over very moisturized hair or you will look greasy. Very potent, use a pea size or less to try. Just seal the tips to try at first I suggest it only for tighter curls than mine unless its just the tips. It acts as a curl enhancer and sealer on me.


Fructis Garnier Pure Clean Gel- Ok for clumping


Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing smoothie-Leave in styler combo, more of a cream than a leave in, heavy, can weigh my curls down. Try if curl pattern is type 3a or above if your hair likes shea. Use sparingly at first.


Uncle Funky’s Daughter Curl Magic Stimulator- Very clumping and makes hair shiny


Curl Junkie Pattern Pusha Hair Styling Gel - 16 oz-Clumping and can use alone


MopTop - Curly Hair Custard Citrus Kumquat - 8 oz. - Cluming with hold, can use alone.


Hard hold gel (HHG):



La looks sports gel (The best, cheapest gel to find)


La Looks Extreme Spikes- My FAVORITE


Biosilk Rock Hard Gelee- Very, very strong use a tiny amount


Beyond the ZONE Bada Bing gel- LOVE it, it feels like a mixture of La Looks and BRHG.


Deva Arc Angel- Nice light hard hold, no frizz without the crunch, air dies well.


Raw Curls Firm Gel- Soft hold for HHG, air dries well and give slight curl enhancement with no crunch, not a ton of hold if you need more, it is enough for me.

Spiralicious- HHG on fine or low porosity

Moderate hold gel:
(I preferred hard hold for good curls, but these are lighter if you need to work up to hard hold gel or hate crunch)


Herbal Essence totally twisted- softer hold


Fructis Style Pure Clean Gel- softer hold, clumps curls too, cleaner feeling, low hold


Uncle Funky’s Daughter Curl Magic Stimulator- Very clumping and makes hair shiny


Curl Junkie Pattern Pusha Hair Styling Gel - 16 oz-Clumping


Mop Top Curling Custard- Clumping decent hold


Ecostyler- Many use this as a HHG. Not hard on me. Hard on some finer types The protein and glycerin causes many to frizz.


Serums:


Curl Keeper- Gets rid of frizz and promotes definition, block frizz in the summer if you’re not glycerin sensitive,


Ky or lube- Curl Keeper dupe, some/many don’t like it as much as curl keeper


Original Moxie Hold Up Serum- Prevents frizz, makes curls shiny.


Curl creams (Heavier, more moisture):



Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing smoothie- Thicker, Shea and coconut oil high porosities


Eden All natural curl defining cream- Moderate- Coconut oil, Vegetable oil, Aloe Vera juice, Cetyl Alcohol, less shea


Cantu Coconut Curling Cream- Lighter, Canola oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, less shea


Camille Rose Aloe Whipped Butter Gel- Light, good for wavy and low porosity


DevaCurl Creams- My HG, I LOVE these! The only creams I use now.


Deep conditioning treatments (DT):


Moderate/high porosities:


Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Hair Masque-deep moisture, argan oil- High porosities (May have to low poo out if you look oily) My HG when I was high porosity.


Shea Moisture Superfruit Complex- Cetyl alcohol, Vegetable Glycerin, Moderate moisture


Shea moisture, Tahitian noni and monio, added proteins for damaged hair


Low/Medium porosities or finer/thinner hair:


SheaMoisture Manuka Intensive Masque-My favorite DT now.
Curl Junkie Rehab- Awesome for LP hair

GVP with honey and coconut oil mixed in (go easy with the honey or it will be stuck in there) add olive oil for more moisture


Anyone's hair:


Easy/cheap DT for anyone coconut oil, condish, honey and add olive oil if you need more moisture and greek yogurt or an egg for protein. Don’t cook the egg...lol Could happen using a shower cap.


Combine DTs above as needed


PT-Protein Treatment: 
(good to repair bleach/straightening/brushing/long hair life damage and some finer types love it to create thicker feeling hair and volume.)

Aphogee Two Step Protein Treatment- Has cones, clarify with a stronger low poo to get them out.

Knox PT treatment from Sciency hair blog-1 pkg. Knox gelatatin mixed into 1/4-1/2 cup water microwaved steaming hot water. Mix in tresseme naturals, coconut oil, agave or honey. Let sit on hair 5 min and up to 1hr for bleach/heat damage, add heat if extremely damaged.


I have added Knox straight into my rinse out masque and did a PT that way. Let it sit 20 min.


Try adding an egg or greek yogurt to DTs for added protein. If it gets hard after, it could be protein overload. If it helps and makes the curls tighter, you retain moisture better, and you are less frizzy your hair likes the extra protein.


http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2014/04/gelatin-protein-treatment-recipe-update.html