Protein and Getting Your Damaged Curls Back

    Protein can help repair heat or color damaged hair. Hair is protein and water. When you add heat, the first thing to go is water and then the protein. When you bleach or color your hair, the bleach in the dye strips some of the protein, leaving the hair exposed and it loses moisture. Curls need moisture like a plant needs water. Without it, they will be limp and lifeless or frizzing up to the air for moisture. Protein rebuilds the hair that was stripped of its protein. The protein acts as a humectant (water attractant and grabs onto and holds onto water). When you are not using silicone (which acts as glue and holds the hair together and seals it but leaves it weighed down and dry under the glue), you need to supplement with protein because it coats the hair and fills in the broken gaps and adds shine and helps with frizz. When you remove the silicone, you have to supplement the damaged hair with protein. The protein coats the hair instead of silicone, giving it shine.

   Some people may need several protein treatments or daily protein in their conditioner or stylers. If your hair is bleached, you should try a protein treatment (PT). Some people are protein sensitive so their hair may react to a lot of protein. But you can try protein of smaller molecular levels such as hydrolyzed or silk proteins or amino acids. Some hair likes some proteins and hates others or it does nothing for it so experiment. 

   Just like protein makes your muscles strong, it makes you hair strong. Strong hair means stronger, less frizzy curls. But be careful because too much protein can make it dry and brittle and it can break. So deep condition as much as you need to get your hair moisturized because if you add protein first before moisture it can make you dryer and your hair can break. When in doubt, always add moisture first, then protein. Hair is a balance of protein and moisture, so when you add protein it will decrease the moisture in your hair making it dryer. So rotate between DT (deep conditioning treatments) and PT. I would try for at least one a week in the beginning if you can.  Add heat to open up your hair cuticles (exterior) with a shower cap or plastic bag covered by a beanie or towel or sit under a hooded dryer or use a blow dryer. If you deep conditioned a lot and cannot retain moisture for anything and are always dry, you probably need protein.

   Since protein makes hair strong, some finer types especially benefit from protein. It makes their hair stronger so the curl pattern is stronger and it give them shine and body.

Is DIY or store bought protein better? Store bought protein is at a small enough molecular level to absorb into the hair. Yogurt and eggs are larger proteins so they coat the hair, but do not go inside the hair. It is a significant difference if you can get it inside the hair. The only DIYs I know of that go inside the hair are the gelatin treatment and the Cherry Lola treatment (can damage hair over time due to the baking soda, caution.) I do occasional protein treatments, once a month or so and I buy conditioners and stylers with added protein. I am experimenting with adding amino acids from Braggs or soy sauce to my DIY.

How do I know if my hairs likes protein?

Try neutral protein filler from Sally's in the hair dye section for $2 and add it to your conditioner or stylers. If your hair becomes less frizzy and the curls are better shaped or tighter, your hair liked it. You can also make a DIY with Greek yogurt, eggs, bananas, or avocados just be careful not to cook the eggs.

Best protein Treatments:

Aphogee Two Step (has silicones, but there's nothing on the market as good, just low poo them out or use diluted sulfate shampoo if you have none. It stinks, but it is the best treatment I have tried.)

DIY Gelatin Treatment

Cherry Lola treatment (on Youtube or her blog) Be aware this can be abrasive on your hair because the baking soda can increase your hair's porosity and damage the cuticle permanently.

Watch my video on the Aphogee Two Step:

Conditioners with protein:

Yes to carrots blueberries (smaller amount)

Ion Effective Care treatment at Sally's (large amount, you can do a Protein treatment with this, leave it on and add heat)

Generic Value Product (GVP) Color Care Conditioner (moderate amount, water soluble silicones, Sally's)

Quantum Moisturizing Conditioner (large amount, Sally's)

Shea Moisture Tahitian and Noni and Monoi line (the masque has less protein than the conditioner, I like the conditioner better)

Stylers with protein

Ecostyler gel (curl enhancer for type 2-3s, harder hold on 4)

La looks gel (amino acids, sports and extreme spikes have very hard hold, mega and nutracurl is less...better on finer types because they don't have any or as much leave in to softer the crunch, good on type 2-3)